Today I decided to borrow Kendelyn the Photographer’s
camera. Since I cannot visit the historic Christian community in Mosul, I
decided to find one here in Sulaimaniyah. I had heard that there was an Arabic
speaking Chaldean Church across the big street that runs through my
neighborhood. So, I grabbed the camera, a journal and Hemingway and set out at
10 this morning hoping to find the church or to get lost. Either scenario would
make for a good day. You can’t say you have known a city until you can say you
have gotten lost in it.
Grabbing the camera, I wrapped the black strap around my
wrist because I am petrified that I will drop it and walked east. Clouds of
dust covered the city blocking the direct light from the sun, while managing to
hold in the heat creating a sauna-like effect. I wandered around the
neighborhood, walking slowly and trying to get a feel for the camera. The stone
houses and walls (fences) that seem to be everywhere in the Middle East gave a
sense of adventure to the morning stroll through the neighborhood. Receding
further into the neighborhood, I began to hear a call to prayer. This would be
altogether normal except there was no nearby mosque. I began to follow the
sound and came upon a long rectangular tent with men inside. They were
standing, sitting and drinking tea. I sat on a curb across the street to listen
to the voice singing in Arabic. A few minutes of stares from the old men under
the tent convinced me to continue my search for the Chaldean church.
By this time, I figured I was on the border of the Rizgari
neighborhood and needed to return back west only headed a little further south.
I was still hoping to find the Chaldean church.
As I turn the corner of a rock-faced wall I see bright
colored soccer balls hanging from an open steel gate. This is an obvious
indicator of a toyshop. It was odd. This is the first shop I had seen in any
neighborhood. Usually these shops are all together on one street in the bazaar,
so to see one by itself was just…odd. As I walked by and snapped a picture of
the bright colored balls, a man walked outside.
We started talking and he spoke very little English, but was
a wonder at “smiles and nods.” Halfway through our conversation that only he
apparently understood, I began to ask about the Chaldean church in Rizgari. His
response was that he would go get his son, whose name was Hastiar.
Hastiar spoke English well and began asking his father if
there was an old Chaldean church nearby. I shouldn’t have used the word old. He
said there was an old church in a neighborhood called Saboon Karan, and that
they would take me to it. I tried to explain that there was a church nearby,
but it didn’t seem to translate.
Ali, the father, took Hastiar and I to the bus stop where we
waited for the bus and got to know each other, while waiting for the bus.
"You can’t say you have known a city until you can say you have gotten lost in it." Too true!
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